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Mississippi Melodies

A journey with Atlantic contributor Wayne Curtis

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In Twain's Wake

 November 2007

By Wayne Curtis

"I stopped by the Delta Cultural Center and chatted with 'Sunshine' Sonny Payne, who's been hosting the King Biscuit Time blues radio show for 56 years. At the Malco Theater, I heard James 'Super Chikan' Johnson put on a terrific show using handmade guitars. At Bubba's Blues Corner record shop, ... Bubba Sullivan, took me outside to point out the curtained windows of a former nightclub where Robert Johnson used to play and an auditorium where Elvis once set local teenagers swooning. This moribund town is happily occupied by a host of spirits....."    

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