Corby Kummer follows the trail of the oily fish from Cannery Row to modern gourmet restaurants.
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July/August 2007
By Corby Kummer
"The best way to rediscover sardines—and overcome residual aversion based on the tins of childhood—is to eat them fresh, just as diners graduated from canned tuna to grilled tuna to tuna tartare.... I go frequently to Rendezvous, a restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts, where Steve Johnson, the chef, almost always has grilled sardines on the menu.... Johnson serves sardines with classic accompaniments to oily fish, such as a fennel and black-olive salad with preserved-lemon vinaigrette, and he likes them with smoked paprika, too...."  
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